• Cast on to circular needles and join without twisting
• Count rounds in stockinette (K all rows)
• Knit on double point needles
• Knit 2 together (K2tog)
• Knit 2 colors stranding
• Read chart
• Knitting i-cord
• Weaving ends

This little hat is very popular as a newborn gift, but will still be practical as the baby grows because the
deep roll at the opening allows you to use it stretched around a larger head and roll it down to stay on.
It’s super easy to adapt to larger (toddler, child) size by simply adding stitches in multiples of 8, giving
you about 1.5” extra circumference with each unit.

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn of your choice in two colors, one of which will probably be green. Apx 25
grams, 100 yards for main color, less for the leaves. Your milage may vary. I prefer natural fibers but
it’s your hat. I do find that 100% cotton often lacks the spring of something with some wool mixed in
and the hat will sag and stretch out. The lavender sample on this pattern was done in Brown Sheep
Cotton Fleece which is 80/20 cotton/merino. The orange pumpkin sample was done in Swans Island
Natural Colors Collection 100% organic merino.
• Needles: 16” circulars in size US7 and US8, 5 double-point (dp) needles size US8 (or size to achieve
gauge) Feel free to adapt to magic loop or other method but you’re on your own.
• Stitch marker, yarn needle, measuring tape.

The inside circumference of the hat, when it’s not stretched out, is 11.5” and it’s about 5” deep when the
cuff is rolled up, not including the topknot. You can adjust the depth when knitting the main body of the
hat keeping in mind that once you start the leaf section it’s about 2.5” to the center crown.

Knit 5 stitches per inch in stockinette in the round.
All stitches are KNIT.

Using the smaller circular needles, cast on 64 stitches of the main color (MC). I prefer the Jeny’s
Stretchy Slipknot Cast-On, by Jeny Staiman. You can find a video of it here:
3n8E3I6Cg2k. Join without twisting and knit 5 rounds. The first round is squeeky tight, but it quickly
loosens up. You can use the cast-on tail as a guide to your round counts. It won’t be crucial until you
switch to the green yarn.
Switch to the larger circular needles (this is a good time to check your stitch count) and continue
knitting every round until the piece measures 4.5” or 5” from the cast-on edge.
Place a marker to establish the beginning of the round. Join the green yarn leaving a longish tail.

Read from the bottom up, and from right to left, which is the way your stitches build. The lines on the
chart indicate the rounds of knitting Stitch 1 is the first stitch after you slip the marker. The section with
stitches 9-16 is repeated 6 times, bringing you to 8 stitches away from the round marker. ALL
STITCHES ARE KNITTED. There is a • used for the K stitches of the main color in case you print the
chart in black & white. The blank white spaces indicate No Stitch. You are decreasing by knitting 2
together on each round so you have successively fewer stitches on each round.

Round 13: You now have 8 total stitches remaining. Complete 1 more round of K2tog. You will need to
move stitches from left to right needles to do this. (4 st remaining)

TopKnot: Using the 4 remaining stitches, complete approximately 4” of i-cord. (see next page for
general i-cord instructions, or find one of may video how-to’s online.

At the end of the i-cord, bind off the 4 stitches. Cut the yarn, thread onto a needle and tie a tight slip
knot. Carefully thread the loose yarn end down the center of the i-cord tube, cutting off any remaining
yarn that extends. Tie the i-cord into a loose knot. Carefully weave in the loose yarn tails from the
inside, and along the cast-on edge. The cuff of the hat will naturally roll up. No need to block. Follow
your yarn’s washing instructions. I suggest air drying on top of an Old Fashioned glass. Drink the
whiskey first, though.

Written instructions for the chart
Basic i-cord written instructions.


Round 1: *K1 green, K7 MC* Repeat ** around until 8 sts remain before marker. K1 green,
K6 MC, K1 green.
Round 2: *K2 green, K5 MC, K1 green* Repeat ** around until 8 sts remain before marker.
K2 green, K4 MC, K2 green.
Round 3: *K3 green, K3 MC, K2 green* Repeat ** around until 8 sts remain before marker. K3 green,
K2 MC, K3 green.
Round 4: *K4 green, K1 MC, K3 green* Repeat ** around until 8 sts remain before round marker.
K4 green, K1 MC, K3 green.
Round 5: K all stitches in green. During this round, transfer sts to the dp needles with 16 sts on each
needle. Keep the round marker in the center of a needle so it won’t fall off while working the rounds.
Round 6: *K6, k2 tog* Repeat ** around. (Remember that your new round will always start in middle
of a needle!) (56 sts remaining)
Round 7: *K5, k2 tog* Repeat ** around. (48 sts remaining)
Round 8: *K4, k2 tog* Repeat ** around. (40 sts remaining)
Round 9: *K3, k2 tog* Repeat ** around. (32 sts remaining)
Round 10: *K2, k2 tog* Repeat ** around. (24 sts remaining)
Round 11: *K1, k2 tog* Repeat ** around. (16 sts remaining)
Round 12: K2 tog around. (8 sts remaining)
Return to main pattern for Round 13 and completion.

Must be done using 2 double-point needles.
Step 1: Cast on a few stitches. I-Cord is usually made using 3 to 5 stitches.
Step 2: Knit one row.
Step 3: Do not turn the work. Just slide your work to the other end of your double pointed
needle. Your working yarn will be at the “wrong” end of your work.
Step 4: Pull the working yarn tightly across the back of your work and knit the next row.

Step 5: Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have i-cord of your desired length.